Leaving Amsterdam on the MS Monarch Queen, we cruised to our first destination, Antwerp, Belgium, which offered a mix of industrial and beautiful countryside, and we loved the views.
We arrived at the Cruise Ponton South docking location and, by about 9:15 AM, began a walking tour, followed by a good amount of free time.
Antwerp or Antwerpen?
Internationally, the city is known as Antwerp; the official name in the Dutch-speaking region of Flanders is Antwerpen. To complicate matters further, the French-speaking region of Belgium calls it Anvers.
Whatever you call it, the city is magnificent.
It’s the fifth-largest port in the world, and the city is a commercial center known for its diamond industry.
Origin of the Name
The name Antwerp has two very different origin stories.
The first was that a giant charged a toll on the river. He was defeated by Silvius Brabo, who cut off the giant’s hand and tossed it into the river. Hand werpen, or Hand Throwing, was interpreted as Antwerpen.
You’ll find the symbol of hands everywhere throughout Antwerp.
Second and more technical, the name may come from a Dutch phrase “aan de werp,” meaning “on the warf.’
Het Steen
Right near the ship, we visited Het Steen. Het Steen translates to ‘the rock’ in English. Built between 1200 and 1225, it served as the gateway to the castle of the Duke of Brabant, which was demolished in the 19th century.
Initially known as “S Heeren Steen,” or the King’s Stone Castle, later shortened to Het Steen.
Whatever the origin of the name, this stone fortification is the city’s oldest building and was part of the city’s earliest urban center.
Hands of Antwerp
Hands are one of Antwerp’s major symbols; you’ll see them everywhere, from sculptures and trinkets to even chocolates.
This bronze sculpture by artist Sam Herciger, created in 1978, was in a little garden courtyard on our way through the city center.
The Backalleys of Antwerp’s City Center
We wandered the back alleys of Antwerp and really enjoyed the mixture of architectural styles, with alleys that dead-ended into a beautiful cafe. We saw bits of everyday life and old buildings converted into local businesses.
Wandering around the back alleys of a city really gives you a different perspective than just visiting historical sites.
The Grote Markt
The Grote Markt, or “Big Market,” is the central square in Antwerp’s old quarter. An ornate Town Hall, 16th-century guild houses, and the unique Brabo Fountain surround it.
This fountain is unique in that it depicts Silvius Brabo throwing the giant’s hand into the river. Talk about a full-circle moment!
The buildings are renowned for their traditional Flemish and Dutch architecture.
Quiet on the Set!
We had incredible timing visiting the Grote Markt. They were preparing to shoot a movie. From what we have learned, the fictional series “Breendonk” follows a couple who choose between resistance and flight during the German occupation of World War II.
The props and uniforms were really interesting to see. It was a lot like our experience seeing Frankenstein being filmed in Edinburgh, where people in period attire were wearing sunglasses and carrying cell phones.
Here in Antwerp, we saw WWII soldiers in uniform, reading newspapers of the day and smoking pipes, interacting with people in modern-day attire who were vaping and talking on cell phones.
Nello and Patrasche
Not far from the Grote Markt, in front of the Cathedral of Our Lady, stands the famous statue of Nello and Patrasche.
The statue depicts the main characters of Marie Louise de la Ramée’s 1872 novel “A Dog of Flanders,’ which she wrote under the pen name Ouida.
The statue celebrates loyalty and unconditional friendship. Created in 2016 by artist Batist Vermeulen, it depicts Nello, an orphaned boy, under a blanket with his loyal dog, Patrasche.
Cathedral of Our Lady
The iconic Cathedral of Our Lady is the seat of the Diocese of Antwerp, which began in 1352. However, the first stages of construction ended in 1521 and have never been completed.
It is the largest Gothic church in Belgium and a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the Belfries of Belgium and France.
The first Parrish church on this site dates back to the arrival of Christian missionaries in the 7th century and has undergone multiple iterations before the current building was constructed.
“The Man Who Bears The Cross,” a bronze self-portrait by artist Jan Fabre. Installed in 2015, it was the first contemporary artwork added since 1924.
“Corona,” by Spanish artist Javier Pérez, is a detailed sculpture of the Crown of Thorns, crafted in clear Murano glass and displayed on a red velvet cushion.
Ascension of the Virgin Mary – Flemish Artist Cornelis Schut – 1647
While the Cathedral is home to works by Otto van Veen, Jacob de Backer, and Marten de Vos, it is best known for those by Peter Paul Rubens.
Peter Paul Rubens
The Cathedral houses several major works by Peter Paul Rubens.
Peter Paul Rubens was a Flemish painter and diplomat. While he was born in Germany, he lived and painted in Antwerp until his death there in 1640. As a painter of altarpieces, landscapes, and portraits, he is considered one of the most influential painters of the Flemish Baroque tradition.
Two of them, “The Raising of the Cross” and “The Descent from the Cross,” were taken by the French during Napoleon’s reign and returned in the 19th century.
Later, these same pieces were stolen again by the Imperial German Army in 1914 and returned after the Armistice of 11 November 1918.
Other iconic works by Rubens include “The Assumption of the Virgin Mary” and “The Resurrection of Christ.”
Old Antwerp
After leaving the Cathedral, our group had the afternoon to tour at our leisure. Hearing great things about Antwerp Central Station, we led a group through the old city in search of it.
The Old City is wild. It features marvelous old buildings that have been repurposed as everything from shopping malls and stores to restaurants and residential buildings. Right next to these buildings with incredible history are more modern buildings, and it just works.
We passed dozens of diamond shops, mixed in with local bakeries and eateries, as well as fast-food chains and stores with international brands.
Another surprise was a young man on the street playing an upright piano. He was incredible, but you have to wonder how he gets that out there every day.
Antwerp Central Station
Built in 1905, Antwerp Central Station combines Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau architectural styles. Its eclectic design features a massive dome, marble, and an iron-and-glass train shed.
Random Weird Stuff
I don’t know how we managed to come upon the station from the South side. Whatever you do, make your way around to the front (which we missed) as it’s magnificent. Don’t forget to go up onto the train platform too.
The station is featured in several films, including ”The Last Diamond” (2014). “Erased” (2012) and “Trans-Europe Express” (1966).
It’s also been featured in the Netflix shows “Rough Diamonds” (2023) and “Agatha Christie’s Poirot.”
The station is beautiful, but it’s a functioning train station, so you rarely get photos of the building alone.
Additionally, the station is located next to the city zoo. We hear it is amazing, but we rarely visit zoos.
After a busy day, we headed back to the ship. We caught the tail end of lunch service and relaxed on board.
Next up, our day in the city of Ghent!
