Izamal: The Yellow City

After our short stay in Merida, our tour group headed about 70km east to the city of Izamal. This Pueblo Magico was our stop on the way to Chichen Itza.

We’ve been there several times. Its central district is fun to explore, and we knew our travel partners would enjoy the lunch break there, too.

Henequen plants along the road outside of Izamal.

Mayan Temples

Izamal may have been home to one of the largest Mayan civilizations in the region, spanning about 20 square miles. It was partially abandoned with the rose of Chichen Itza between 800-1000 A.D.

The temple of Kinich Kak Moo in Izamal — Temple of Kinich Kak Moo.

The modern city grew up right on top of the Mayan city. One of the ruins, Kinich Kak Moo, is in the middle of town. Its entrance is on the local street, sandwiched between several loncherias and tiendas.

Small shops next to Kinich Kak Moo in Izamal — Shops next to the archaeological site in Izamal.

The first tier of steps at Kinich Kak Moo in Izamal — The first tier of steps to the temple.

Climbing the temple of Kinich Kak Moo in Izamal — Climbing the temple.

View of Izamal from the temple. — View of the city from the temple.

Convent San Antonio de Padua

Just a block or two away is the Convent San Antonio de Padua. This massive convent is, like in many other places, built right on top of a Mayan temple. The stones from the temple were used in the building of the monastery.

Completed in 1561, the open atrium is second in size only to the Vatican.

Convent of San Antonio de Padua in Izamal — The Convent.

The bell tower of the Convent San Antonio de Padua in Izamal. — The bell tower.

Colonial doors inside the convent in Izamal. — Beautiful colonial doors.

The main church at the monastery is the Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal. It’s simple, with some beautiful wood carvings and stained glass.

The altar inside the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Izamal — The church’s beautiful altar.

Stained glass pieces at the convent San Antonio de Padua — Stained glass pieces outside the sanctuary.

Stained glass pieces at the convent in Izamal. — Stained glass piece on the back of the sanctuary. Which ironically is not painted yellow.

From the monastery, you can actually see the top of the neighboring Mayan temple.

View of Kinich Kak Moo from the Convent San Antonio de Padua — View of the temple from the convent.

Chuck looking at the temple from the convent.

Pope John Paul II

One of the convent’s most meaningful events was the visit of Pope John Paul II in 1993.

There is a large statue and a small museum honoring this event.

Statue of Pope John Paul II at the Convent San Antonio de Padua in Izamal — Statue of Pope John Paul II in the open atrium.

It is said that this event was a symbolic gesture by the Catholic Church to reconcile with indigenous communities. In doing some research, we found an article from the day of the Pope’s visit in The Washington Post.

Against the backdrop of a colonial monastery, Pope John Paul II today saluted indigenous Americans “from the Alaskan peninsula to Tierra del Fuego,” condemning conditions that forced Indians into poverty and denouncing colonialists who attempted to wipe out Indian cultures.

The Yellow City

No one quite knows why the city is painted yellow. One version of the story claims that it was painted yellow with white trim to make the city presentable for the Pope’s visit.

Others claim it was there before his visit and was a decision of the government and neighbors.

Whatever the reason, it’s beautiful and has made Izamal an attractive destination for tourists from Merida. And those heading to Chichen Itza.

The yellow city of Izamal in the Yucatan — The streets of the Yellow City.

Restaurante Kinich

Located just up the block from the Mayan temple is Restaurant Kinich. It’s actually our go-to place in Izamal and, ironically, the location of our lunch for this portion of the trip.

The colonial-era home opens into gardens with water features and several interconnected palapa-style outdoor dining areas.

Restaurant Kinich in Izamal — Restaurante Kinich

Gardens inside Restaurante Kinich — Gardens inside the restaurant.

A fountain in the garden of Restaurante Kinich — A fountain in the garden.

For this visit, Mark chose the Pollo Pibil. Chicken marinated in Achiote Paste and Sour Orange, wrapped in Banana Leaves, and traditionally cooked underground. We’ve had the Pork version on previous visits, and this was just as delicious.

Pibil Pollo with Pickled Red Onions and Charred Tomato Salsa — Mark’s Pollo Pibil

Chuck opted for their Poc-Chuc. Thinly sliced Pork, marinated and grilled over a wood fire. It’s served with a Roasted Tomato Salsa and Pickled Red Onion.

Poc-chuc with Pickled Red Onions and Charred Tomato Salsa — Chuck’s Poc-Chuc

SIDE NOTE:

The region is known for its White-Tailed Deer. The traditional Yuctecan version Kinich serves is out of this world!

Off to Mayaland!

After lunch, we boarded our bus and headed across the Yucatan Peninsula for our hotel and Chichen Itza.