My, Oh Mayan – Influences in Merida, Yucatan

Mayan influences are very noticeable in Merida and across the Yucatan.

There are dozens of incredible Mayan ruins in the region surrounding Merida. Likewise, Mayan art is very prominent throughout the city. As you travel across the Yucatan you will find that many people still speak the Mayan language. And the Mayan influence on food can be found everywhere!

 

 

This was our first trip to Merida and because of COVID, many cultural activities were canceled. We stayed in Centro, exploring the more colonial aspects and livability of the city.

 

Eating in Merida

Merida has a fantastic array of foods available. Beyond what most from the US would consider ‘Mexican’ food, we had terrific Pizza. We had Fish and Chips and Shepherd’s Pie at an Irish pub, as well.

 

 

Trattoria La Pasta

Paseo de Montejo 481

97000 Merida, Yucatan, Mexico

 

 

Hennessey’s Irish Pub

Paseo de Montejo 56

97000 Merida, Yucatan, Mexico

 

There are a lot of foods influenced by the Spanish and European traders. You’ll find lots of the spit-roasted meats of Tacos al Pastor, a dish influenced by the Lebanese. You’ll also see Queso de Bola or Edam Cheese from the Netherlands. It’s incorporated into Marquesitas, which are also served with Nutella.

 

 

Oddly enough, for two guys originally from Philly – Queso Philadelphia seems to play a prominent role in Merida’s foods. We saw the Philadelphia Cream Cheese logo on Marquesita carts. Beyond that, we heard it’s hard to find Sushi in Merida without Cream Cheese.

Marquesitas are not a traditional Mayan food. But, they are typically only found in the Yucatan. Along with another popular dish made with Edam Cheese; Queso de Bola. This dish is a ball of Edam stuffed with meat and steamed in banana leaves. It’s on our list for the next trip.

 

Mayan Influences

The influences of foods indigenous to the region and Mayan culture are everywhere in Merida. Foods like Sour Oranges, Habanero peppers, Achiote or Annatto, Corn, Turkey, Chiles, Squash, and Tomatoes are very prominent.

Here are some of the incredible Mayan influenced foods of the Yucatan we tried in Merida.

 

Cochinita Pibil

Cochinita Pibil may be one of the best-known Mayan dishes in the Yucatan. Prepared with pork, the meat is marinated in a Sour Orange Juice (Naranja Agria) and an Achiote marinade. It is wrapped in Banana Leaves and buried in an underground fire pit.

You’ll find Cochinita Pibil all over the city of Merida. Conchinita can be incorporated into tacos and sandwiches as well as served as a meal with Pickled Red Onion, Black Beans, and Corn Tortillas. We’ve also had Chicken Pibil, which was excellent as well.

 

 

Poc Chuc

Another favorite pork dish is Poc Chuc. Marinated pork is grilled and served with many of the same accompaniments as Cochinita. Some places included a chunky charred tomato and onion salsa.

 

 

Sopa de Lima

This soup is very similar to what most in the US would know as Tortilla Soup. A brothy soup made with chicken and served with corn tortilla crisps. The main difference and what gives the soup its name is the addition of a distinctive local lime. It gives it a great, slightly sour bite.

 

 

Relleno Negro

As turkey lovers from the US, we were really excited to see a lot of turkey in Merida. Wild turkeys are actually native to the region and popular in much of the cooking. We had no trouble finding fresh turkeys on our trip to the Lucas de Galvez Market.

 

 

One dish we saw everywhere is Relleno Negro. Unfortunately, this was a very confusing name because of our limited Spanish knowledge. It’s not a filled or stuffed dish as we assumed by the word Relleno. It’s actually a turkey dish made with blackened chiles and spices. Do not let the dark color or the words blackened chiles turn you off. It was delicious. We had it on tacos, and they were fantastic!

 

 

Chaya

This is a native green leafy vegetable. It’s difficult to describe as everyone has a different take on it. Chaya, as known as tree spinach. Locals use it to aid in digestion and thought to improve vision, lower cholesterol and prevent coughs.

Because Chaya is so versatile, you can use it in many ways.  We drank it at breakfast with fresh pineapple and ate it in an empanada with cheese.

 

 

Papadzules

This was probably one of the more interesting dishes we tried. Chuck tried it for breakfast at an outdoor café. Papadzules has unique flavors and textures. You make it by dipping corn tortillas in a sauce made of pumpkin seeds.  You then fill it with chopped hardboiled eggs and top it with tomato sauce. It’s very mild in flavor and was definitely something we will order again.

 

 

Trying Mayan Foods

Mayan influenced Yucatecan food is literally everywhere in Merida – from inexpensive street fare to more formal and somewhat touristy restaurants.

We had dinner at two of the better-known restaurants featuring Yucatecan foods. Both had outdoor dining, which was essential to us as we are not eating indoors. And both were adhering to the local COVID precautions.

 

Teya: Gastronomia Yucateca Viva

Teya: Gastronomía Yucateca Viva

Calle 60 346

97000 Merida, Yucatan, Mexico

The restaurant is located in the Paseo 60 shopping area and had a good number of physically distant outdoor tables. The service was terrific, and we really enjoyed the food.

 

La Chaya Maya

La Chaya Maya

Calle 55 520

97000 Merida, Yucatan, Mexico

They actually have two locations in the Merida Centro – one is a little more modern looking and had no outdoor dining. We chose the second for its colonial charm, but mostly for its open-air courtyard.

The food was delicious, the service was a little less attentive. We really enjoyed the atmosphere and especially the woman making handmade corn tortillas next to our table. Yes, she was six feet away and wore her mask the entire time, touching nothing but her masa and the tortillas.

These were actually two of the more expensive meals we had in Merida. Neither was expensive by US standards but certainly not the least expensive place to have tried any of these dishes.

 

Yelp Reviews

We love checking out Yelp reviews whenever we can. Here are links to Mark’s Yelp reviews of the places mentioned

• Trattoria La Pasta 
• Hennessey’s Irish Pub
• Teya 
• La Chaya Maya

When you visit Merida, be sure to check out as much of the local foods as possible. We’re starting a list of more items for our next trip!